In mid-December, I trekked 4 days and 3 nights to one of the 7 Modern Wonders of the World, Machu Picchu. This marks World Wonder number 3 for me, after Petra and Chichen Itza. Just missing the Colosseum, Great Wall of China, Christ the Redeemer, and the Taj Mahal. I went on this adventure alongside Kersten, my BFF since day 1 at UVA. After spending a week at an animal rescue shelter in the southern Amazon Rainforest, she met me in Cusco for a week of history, shopping, and trekking.

Day 1 of the trek was marked by a 4am departure from Cusco (I’ll get to the beauty of Cusco later – we spent 3 days there, on the front and back end of the trek). The first leg of the trip included a 3-hour car ride to Soraypampa, where we were met by a 3km uphill climb to Humantay Lake. The lake reminded me of my Peruvian home back in Ancash, which is littered with these beautiful, teal-water destinations. This day was easy – the guides plan it as such to help trekkers acclimate, as the lake and our lodging that night sat above 4,000 meters (13,122ft). I thought to myself, “Good thing they make Day 1 easy for the Peruvian newbees, whereas I’m a pro to the altitude.” Silly me. I am ashamed to say that at 10pm that first night, I found myself in the chilly outdoor bathroom, throwing up … amongst other things. This is the second time I’ve gotten altitude sick in Peru (locally known as “soroche”), both of which occurred after eating too much at a new high altitude (the first happened during my first week living in Ancash). Moral of the story, watch what you eat, people.

Anyway, the next morning I felt like a champ, ready to hike 22km. We awoke, packed our things, and trekked uphill for breakfast … needless to say, I didn’t eat much of it. As we peaked the hill where the dining area was, Kersten and I were hit in the face with an insanely clear view of Salkantay Mountain in the distance (the pass through Salkantay Mountain was our main destination that day). Expectations of clear skies were low coming into the trek, as December is the start of wet season. So, we were beyond pleasantly surprised.

That day was the hardest, with hours of uphill climbing right off the bat to reach the Salkantay Pass (4,630m/15,190ft). At the top, our guide showed us a traditional Peruvian ritual, offering coca leaves to the earth and sun, as the other guide serenaded us with a traditional Peruvian flute. If someone asks me, “do you recommend taking a guide to Machu Picchu?” I would 100 times say yes. Not necessarily to lead you through the path, which is well-trafficked, but to teach you the intricacies, anecdotes, and viewpoints of the Incas. For example, I learned that nevados (snow-capped mountains) and colibris (hummingbirds) mean so much in Incan history, as they connect the three worlds: the under world, our world, and the heavens. Nevados, because of the mere size of them, is thought to pass through each world, while colibris are recognized as inter-world messengers.

Day 3 was easy. We opted for a coffee tour, right next door to our glass domes, followed by hot springs, followed by a 12km (2.5 hour) flat hike to Aguas Calientes, the town which sits at the base of Machu Picchu. We got a glimpse of Machu Picchu on the way, almost invisible to the naked eye. We would have missed it if it weren’t for our guide telling us to squint at a distant mountain peak. From that angle, it seems impossible to have placed something so magnificent up there. We’d have to wait about 15 hours to see it up close.

As we made our way through Machu Picchu’s gates, I faced the unspoken fear of the past few days: a dense fog. As I contemplated the possibility of a permanently obstructed view, the Gods granted my wishes, and over the course of 15 seconds, the dense fog lifted, and Machu Picchu emerged.

While some people question the merit of certain World Wonders, there is no question when it comes to Machu Picchu. The stone structures, albeit in pieces, are magnificently set atop a pointed mountain, surrounded by huge, dark green, wavy mountains and not an inch of civilization in site. There is a huge stone which mirrors the mountain behind it, astronomically-focused designs, representations of nature everywhere you look, and a sacrificial, religious site atop a second peak – a 1400s Incan skyscraper, if you will.

As I left Machu Picchu that day, I had a feeling I’d be back. If not in the next couple of years, then in 30 (with a family, dare I say?). It’s truly a magnificent place, and gave me a deeper love and respect for Peru than I already had.

A Note About the Beautiful Cusco

Now, Cusco. The place is beautiful. The architecture, food scene, its huge plaza surrounded by two large stone churches. Kersten and I attended a mass on our first morning there, which was a neat look into Cusqueñen life. We shopped. It is a dangerous, dangerous place for shopping. Everywhere you look, there is baby alpaca sweaters waiting to be worn. Not to mention the jewelry, tapestries, and woven blankets. While we had a couple days there on the front and back end of our trek, we wanted more. We didn’t plan a thing – just walked along cobble streets, had a spa day, stepped into cafés, got our ears pierced (sorry, Mom), and spent the night out.

Coming into Cusco, I knew I had to try their local delicacies. More than anything, to tell my host family all about the culinary differences once back in Ancash. I ordered their version of cuy (guinea pig), which was only slightly different than that of Ancash. Cuy is a dish of the “sierra”, or the mountains. You won’t find it (not traditionally, at least) in the coast or jungle. In Ancash, they fry it, but in Cusco, it’s roasted.